Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Le Riz Iranien - Persian Rice

Actually, since it looks like there are old unfinished posts laying around in my drafts section, I'm going to put up what's left while I'm not up to cooking so that I can start fresh, because there are going to be new and interesting things happening on this blog in a little while. So just fyi, this means the picture quality is going to be all over the place depending on what's left in there because some of these posts have been in there for-ever (like over a year forever).

FR: En fait, comme j'ai des vieux billets que je n'ai jamais fini dans ma section brouillon, je vais les afficher tant que je ne peux pas vraiment faire de cuisine, pour recommencer à zéro, parce que dans peu de temps des choses nouvelles et intéressantes vont se passer sur ce blog. Alors pour vous prévenir, ca veut dire que la qualité des photos va être complètement irrégulière pendant un moment parce que certains de ces billets sont dans mes brouillons depuis très longtemps (certains plus d'un an).
What does Persian Rice have that other rice doesn't? A crust that it totally scrumptious and yummy if you like crackly, crunchy yummy things like I do. The crust goes by its own name which is Tahdig (Tah-Deeg). The inner rice part is totally awesome too. This was actually my first attempt at making Polo by myself after watching my mother do it 80,000 times while growing up. Polo is what you call rice in Farsi. Rice is a staple of Persian cooking; many dishes are composed of rice with an accompanying stew called khoresht (ho-risht is the closest english pronunciation you could do), or sometimes you cook things into the rice so that then it is called a something Polo (depending on what the something is). For example, zereshk (zay-resh-k) Polo is barberry rice or sometimes when the recipe is involved and a whole bunch of things get cooked into the rice, the dish has a name of its own, like Tahchin (Tah-Cheen) which is one of my absolute favorites and is a combination of chicken or lamb cooked into rice with yogurt and saffron and a lot of technique (it's quite hard to make and often doesn't appear on Persian restaurant menus because it's so involved).

FR: Qu’est-ce que le riz Iranien a que d’autres riz n’ont pas? Une croûte qui est absolument croustillante et délicieuse si vous aimez les choses croustillantes et délicieuses comme moi. La croûte a un nom particulier qui est Tahdig (Tahh-dig). Evidemment le reste est délicieux aussi. Là c’était la premiere fois que je faisais du Polo toute seule après avoir regardé ma mère le faire 80,000 fois en grandissant. Polo est le mot Persan pour le riz. Le riz est un aliment essentiel de la cuisine iranienne ; énormement de plats iraniens sont composés de riz blanc avec un ragoût qu’on appelle khoresht en accompagnement, ou on cuit des choses dans le riz et à ce moment-là le plat est nommé quelque chose Polo; par exemple Adas Polo est du riz aux lentilles (Adas), ou encore si la recette est plus compliquée et beaucoup de choses vont dans le riz le plat a un nom propre, comme par exemple le Tahchin (Tahh-Tchine) qui est un de mes plats préferés et un mélange de poulet ou d’agneau cuit avec du yaourt, du safran et pas mal de savoir-faire dans le riz (c’est assez compliqué à faire correctement et n’apparait que très rarement dans les menus de restaurants iraniens pour cette raison).
Just to make the basic thing, there are a bunch of tricks to making Polo correctly.
First, to make real polo, that is for the rice to stay long and to separate well once cooked, you have to wash as much starch out of it as you possibly can. So you leave the rice in water for a little while so that the starch will start to come out of it, then you start doing this washing and swirling the starchy water out of it thing with it which my mother does a number of times in 4 seconds, but which takes me quite a bit longer because I might pour out some rice along with the water if I try to do it as fast as she does. When the water is completely clear then you've gotten all the starch out that you can.

FR: Rien que pour le plat de base, il y a un nombre d’astuces pour faire un Polo correctement.
D’abord, pour faire du vrai Polo, c'est-à-dire pour que le riz reste long et bien séparé une fois cuit, il faut enlever autant d’amidon que possible du riz pour commencer. Donc on laisse le riz tremper dans de l’eau un petit moment pour que l’amidon commence à en partir, puis on lave le riz en versant de l’eau dessus et en le faisant tournoyer d’une certaine manière que ma mère arrive à faire plusieurs fois en 4 secondes mais qui me prend plus longtemps parce que je pourrais jeter du riz en vidant l’eau si j’essaye de le faire aussi vite qu’elle. Quand l’eau est complètement propre vous avez enlevé autant d’amidon que possible.
Second, there are two ways to make Polo properly so that it will have that crust; the most common way is to own a Polo Paz, meaning rice cooker, which are made a special way so that you'll always end up with some form of that crust. So beware, any old rice cooker won't do it quite like this, Persian rice cookers are made a particular way to achieve this, witness the "how dark a crust do you want on your rice?" measure on the right side of the above photo. Another way, if you don't own a Polo Paz, is usually to cook it in a deep saucepan with a TON of butter which would make the crust brown nicely and also come out of the pan when you'd flip it. My grandmother (the tahchin maker) didn't own a Polo Paz when I was little so she made it that way.

FR: Ensuite, il y a deux moyens de faire le Polo correctement pour qu’il ait une telle croûte; le moyen le plus courant est d’avoir un Polo Paz, c'est-à-dire un cuiseur de riz, qui sont fabriqués d’une certaine manière pour qu’on ait toujours une croûte comme ça. Donc attention, n’importe quel cuiseur de riz ne le fera pas exactement comme ça car les cuiseurs de riz Iranien sont spécialement fait pour ça, voyez les images pour vous aider à choisir quel genre de croûte vous voulez au final sur la photo de droite ci-dessus. L’autre moyen, si on ne possède pas de Polo Paz, est de faire cuire le riz dans une casserole avec une TONNE de beurre ce qui permet à la croûte de bien foncer et permet au riz de sortir en entier quand on renverse la casserole sur un plat. Ma grand-mère (celle qui faisait le tahchin) n’avait pas de Polo Paz quand j’étais petite et faisait le riz de cette manière.
Third, there are a few simple-seeming, but potentially tricky if you don't know what they should look like, steps you have to follow: Put the butter in to melt in the Polo Paz. Add the right amount of water for the amount of rice you want to make, make sure the butter and water are thoroughly mixed together. Wait for it to boil the way it does in the Polo Paz, which is this funny little plopping thing with a few bubbles at the surface, not like a full boil in a saucepan or something. Then you add the rice and you mix it well but very gently because you don't want to crush your rice or break it in any way. This takes a little while because there's a stop and go method to it where you wait for the rice to absorb the surface water and butter and then you mix some more, and if you don't do it properly you'll have weird layers of butter and rice and buttery rice instead of a uniform slightly buttery tasting delicious rice, plus you also have to be careful not to scrape the sides lest you break the already-forming crust. Then when you're satisfied it's all mixed properly, you smooth the top out so that it will flip upside down flat onto your serving plate and you let it boil uncovered for a few minutes until the Polo Paz rings (one of the mysterious things it knows when to do). Then you wrap the lid with a towel and put it on to cook the rest of the time which usually means about 45mn to an hour. The towel absorbs the excess water evaporating from the rice and is that extra little trick which enables you to have a really crunchy, crispy crust (tahdig). When I visit my parents, my mother and I split the crust between ourselves (my father prefers the rice).

FR: Enfin, il y a quelques étapes apparemment simples, mais potentiellement délicates si on ne sait pas à quoi ça ressemble, à compléter : Mettre le beurre à fondre dans le Polo Paz. Ajouter la bonne quantité d’eau pour la quantité de riz que vous voulez faire, s’assurer que le beurre et l’eau sont bien mélangés. Attendre que le mélange bouille de la manière dont elle bouille dans le Polo Paz, une manière de bouillir très subtile avec quelques bulles à la surface, pas du tout comme de l’eau bouillant dans une casserole. Puis ajouter le riz et bien mélanger mais doucement pour ne pas écraser le riz du tout. Ca prend un petit moment parce qu’il faut mélanger un peu et attendre, attendre que le riz absorbe l’eau beurrée à la surface puis se remettre à mélanger et attendre, et si cela est fait incorrectement on se retrouve avec des couches de beurre et de riz et de riz tres beurré plutôt que tout le riz légèrement et uniformément beurré, en plus du fait qu’il faut faire attention à ne pas toucher les bords du cuiseur pour ne pas détruire la croûte qui est déjà en train de se former. Puis quand tout est bien mélangé, on aplanit bien la surface pour que le riz soit plat quand on le renversera sur le plat de service et on le laisse bouillir à découvert pendant quelques minutes jusqu'à ce que le Polo Paz sonne (une des choses mystérieuses qu’il sait quand faire). Puis on enveloppe le couvercle dans une serviette, on couvre et on laisse cuire le reste du temps ce qui veut normalement dire de ¾ d’heure à 1 heure. La serviette absorbe l’eau qui s’évapore du riz et est l’astuce en plus qui permet d’obtenir une croûte très croustillante (tahdig). Quand je rends visite à mes parents, ma mère et moi partageons la croûte entre nous (mon père préfère le reste du riz).
When time's up (which is something that my mother seems to know by voodoo because I haven't figured out what the formula is for knowing that it is 45mn or an hour or somewhere in between exactly), you flip the rice over onto a serving dish and presto, the best simple rice ever. I'm totally serious. My crust wasn't quite as brown for this first time as I would have liked, but it was crispy and tasted good anyway.

FR: Quand le riz est prêt (quelque chose que ma mère a l'air de savoir par magie noire parce que je n'ai pas encore bien compris la formule pour savoir que c'est 3/4 d'heure ou 1 heure ou quelque chose entre les deux), on renverse le riz sur un plat de service et voilà, le meilleur riz simple au monde, sérieusement. Ma croûte n'etait pas aussi foncée que j'aurai voulu pour cette première fois, mais elle croustillait et était très bonne de toute manière.

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Friday, December 5, 2008

And now for something different... sort of...

So since I am not baking much these days because I can't taste most batters and I can't eat most finished products if they contain butter or other saturated fats, which is a pretty sure thing in most tasty baking, I thought I'd do a post about fun kitchen paraphernalia that I find sometimes while I browse. I'll probably be doing more posts like these in the near future rather than baked goods, just so my blog doesn't consist entirely of Daring Baker Challenges like it has for the past few months.
I found this on British/Japanese designer Reiko Kaneko's website.It's made by Blaue Blume (I'd never heard of them before so I wouldn't be surprised if you haven't either) and I think it's hilarious, although I'm not sure I would actually purchase them for my own kitchen or serving purposes. I think it'd freak out the kids of the family a little too much and there's a certain whiff of Morticia Addams about them, especially the cake stand. I think if I did purchase them they would be brought out for events like Halloween.




I think you get the idea. Something else they had on reikokaneko.co.uk was an egg cup made of little soldiers, like tin soldiers fighting around it. I couldn't copy the picture for some reason so here's the link to that page. That is actually a Reiko Kaneko design, not Blaue Blume. If I had small boys I would get some of those. I won't say I'm a huge fan of having all sorts of ridiculous or playful things in the kitchen but I do love the odd child-like thing here and there, just to remind me not to take things too seriously. Sometimes the odd child-like paraphernalia also makes things taste better, inexplicably...

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Saturday, November 29, 2008

Caramel Me a Daring Baker - November

This month the Daring Bakers made a Caramel Cake created by Shuna Fish Lydon of Eggbeater. You can see the original recipe here: http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/24/caramel-cake-the-recipe/
Our hostesses were Dolores of Culinary Curiosity, Alex of Blondie and Brownie (she's Brownie), and Jenny of Foray into Food.
This was a pretty straightforward cake, I'm just sad to say that I couldn't eat any of it because my pregnancy hormones don't like me and have been causing me to have gallbladder attacks if I eat anything with more than a smidgen of butter or other fats in it such as cream. This isn't stopping me from being the hostess for December along with my friend Marion of Il en Faut Peu Pour Etre Heureux, but I have to say it's hard to make pastries when you can't even taste the batter.
I actually had to have A. do the final taste test for me when I added salt to the caramel buttercream because I fear the attacks (they're very painful) enough not to tempt fate. Of course A. didn't mind being a tester so at least there was one happy person in the kitchen.
Both the cake and the buttercream smell fabulous which I think means they taste fabulous too. Of note, we were supposed to make a light caramel syrup to include in the cake batter and the buttercream, but I actually let my caramel cook past dark amber so that there would be a real smoky caramel taste to both elements. I don't know if it worked in the cake because the recipe only calls for a little addition of caramel syrup in the batter, but I know it worked for the buttercream because I could smell the caramel while beating it.
Everything is packed as we've been moving so I didn't have my pastry bag to decorate the cake (woe is me), so I improvised...hope it looks ok (my obsessive compulsive tendencies say it doesn't, but the rational part of my brain knows it does).
EN FRANCAIS:

Ce mois-ci les Pâtissiers Téméraires ont fait un Gâteau au Caramel concocté par Shuna Fish Lydon du blog Eggbeater. Vous pouvez voir la recette originale là: http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/24/caramel-cake-the-recipe/
Nos hôtesses étaient were Dolores de Culinary Curiosity, Alex de Blondie and Brownie (elle est Brownie), et Jenny de Foray into Food.
Ce gâteau était très simple à faire, je suis juste désolée de n'avoir pas pu en manger du tout car mes hormones de grossesse ne m'aimant pas, elle déclenchent des crises de ma vésicule biliaire dès que je mange plus d'un chouia de beurre ou autre forme de graisse telle de la crème. Ca ne m'empêchera pas d'être l'hôtesse du prochain défi en Décembre avec mon amie Marion de Il en Faut Peu Pour Etre Heureux, mais je dois dire que c'est dur de faire des pâtisseries quand on ne peut même pas goûter à l'appareil.
J'ai du demander à A. de goûter la crème au beurre au caramel plusieurs fois pour moi quand j'ajoutais le sel à la fin parce que j'ai trop peur des crises (qui font très mal) pour tenter ma chance. Evidemment il était ravi donc au moins une personne était heureuse dans la cuisine.
Le gâteau et sa crème au beurre sentent divinement bon donc je pense qu'ils doivent avoir bon goût aussi. A noter, nous étions sensés faire un sirop léger au caramel à inclure dans le gâteau et dans la crème au beurre, mais j'ai laissé mon caramel cuire bien plus longtemps qu'indiqué pour que les deux choses aient un vrai goût un peu fumé de caramel. Je ne sais pas si ça a marché pour le gâteau car la recette n'indique qu'une légère addition de sirop au caramel de toute manière, mais je sais que ça a marché pour la crème au beurre car je sentais le caramel en la battant.
Tout est dans des boîtes en ce moment car nous déménageons donc je n'ai pas ma poche à douille pour décorer le gâteau (tragédie), donc j'ai improvisé...j'espère que c'est assez convenable (mes tendances obsessives compulsives me disent que non mais la partie rationelle de mon cerveau me dit que oui).

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Monday, November 24, 2008

Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies for the Boys

I know I've been neglecting this blog woefully, and the truth is I haven't been in the kitchen much because I don't feel that great all the time, on top of which lately we'd been packing up to move to the U.S. so the combination of being almost 5 months pregnant and packing to move trans-atlantically was not conducive to finding more time to be in the kitchen, but sometimes there are really good reasons to be in the kitchen even if you don't really want to be, and this was a doubly good reason as far as I was concerned.

First, although a nun from a local mission was going to come by to take whatever dry foods and ingredients we'd left behind that could be used for the mission's soup kitchen, I wanted to use as much of my large stock of prime ingredients as possible before we left to reduce any waste.

Second A., as a former member of the Armed Forces, was always taking leftover cake and baked goodies (particularly from the Daring Baker challenges) down to the "boys" at the local base. I affectionately refer to them as the boys although the guys who usually eat my baked goods are officers, though there is the occasional 17 year-old private. Anyway, they're all boys to me, and there are rotations of them coming and going back from Iraq and Afghanistan, so it always makes me feel good when he drops baked goods off for those guys because the least anyone can do for them is show them some appreciation for the hard job that they do, and the truth is that they aren't paid handsomely, they aren't even given proper equipment when they go out there, and I know from A.'s testimony that they never get anything close to home-baked goods at the base commissary. (It doesn't hurt my baker's ego either that they eat the stuff I send down there in a matter of literally minutes).

So having a lot of leftover peanut butter and chocolate chips and tons of flour and all sort of other things, and knowing full well that they love peanut butter chocolate chip cookies having made a batch for them once before, I decided to make these PBCC cookies from a recipe I got off of Smitten Kitchen and which comes originally from the Magnolia Bakery.

I made two double batches of these, which made about 200 cookies, and I also made Nestle Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies, though I substituted almond butter for the regular butter and was then forced to add milk and maple syrup to make the dough smoother to work with, but they turned out pretty well anyway. Who knew.

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Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Pizza! Pizza! - The Daring Bakers in October

This pregnant lady is a little forgetful, so the dough for the pizza was made two weeks ago but I forgot to take the dough out of the freezer yesterday to make the pizzas today and give you some super fresh pictures, so the super fresh pictures of the completed pizzas will be here tomorrow. Blame the little person in my belly.

Cette femme enceinte est un peu dans la lune, alors la pâte à pizza a été faite il y a deux semaines, mais j'ai oublié de sortir la pâte du congélateur hier pour faire les pizzas aujourd'hui pour que vous ayez des photos toutes fraîches, alors les photos toutes fraîches des pizzas finies seront pour demain. Prenez-vous en à la petite personne à bord.

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