Showing posts with label chocolate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chocolate. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Gifts of Chocolate

I was delighted to finally be able to taste the famed Mast Bros' chocolate when a friend sent me some chocolate samples from New York.
The chocolate wrappers and the general presentation of the four bars -this is how she sent the bars to me- was so lovely that I thought I had to photograph it before digging in.
Gifts of Chocolate
I didn't know the other chocolate brand, Chocolat Moderne, but it turns out that while the Mast Bros. are doing a fabulous job of marketing the philosophy and method behind their artisanal chocolate fabrication, I was extremely disappointed in both bars I tried; I actually didn't eat either bar beyond the first taste. I found the Chocolat Moderne, on the other hand, to be both proper and intriguing chocolate in terms of the flavors.
Gifts of Chocolate

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Wednesday, July 14, 2010

In the time it takes to make a hot chocolate...

...you can run around and take pictures of a chocolate shop. Sometimes, like here, they're studiedly corrugated chic.
The Rabot Estate
The Rabot Estate
The Rabot Estate
By the way, Bonne fête du quatorze Juillet les copains!

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Wednesday, February 24, 2010

On birthdays and crazy squirrels

Warning: This is a long post so I'd get some snacks before you start reading if I were you.
Birthday Chocolate Charlotte
So, think the picture above and the one below have nothing to do with each other? Well you'd be right, and you'd be wrong, let me explain.  
Today is A.'s birthday and though this isn't "the" cake I made for him for today, it gives you a good idea of the ones I did make that you will see a bit later on this blog. This cake is a birthday cake too, so I thought I'd show it to you. I made it a while ago for a friend's birthday party and was given free rein to choose the recipe as long as it included chocolate; I chose a Charlotte Cecile because that is one of my favorite cakes ever and there's nothing I like better than to make a cake I love to eat for someone else.

But what does this have to do with squirrels? The thing is that this little guy would only have his picture taken in this way when A. was with me in the park. Without A. well... that's the crazy squirrel story.
Please sir, may I have some more---
In fact the whole squirrel thing is due to A., from beginning to end, and coincides with this birthday cake "thing".
The day I started making this cake, A. decided to take Baby Saffron out to the park for a walk and, being in and out of the kitchen and quite tired, he took her without me. A short while later, he called me from the park so I could hear my little girl giggle to no end. Apparently, he'd chanced upon a French couple giving nuts to a bunch of very enterprising (read crazily comfortable with humans) squirrels who were climbing up on them to take the nuts, and these charming people had given him some nuts to lure the squirrels, thus causing my little girl's giggle fit. Well, needless to say, I immediately regretted not having gone with them but it was too late, so I resolved to take her back to that same area of the park as soon as the weather would allow it.

Now, the pictures below presumably portray what happened on that day, taken when I made A. come with me the second time I went to the park to show Baby Saffron the squirrels.
They *look* harmless, don't they....

Oh yes, the cute little squirrel on the ground.
Get the peanut and run

Uh-huh, the cute little squirrel on A.'s leg.
Fearless squirrel

Umm, the really big (but ok cute) squirrel on A.'s coat!
Squirrel Loot
Let me tell you what happened the first time I went on the squirrel adventure.
Oh yes, I was young and naive then, and they knew it.
A. had purchased a big bag of peanuts in their shell specifically for the squirrels, but when the weather wasn't quite so miserable again a few days later, he couldn't go out and Baby Saffron and I ventured forth by ourselves with aforementioned bag.

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Thursday, February 18, 2010

Gluten-Free Pear Chocolate Muffins with Maple or Chocolate Mascarpone Icing

Gluten Free Pear Chocolate Muffins with Maple or Chocolate Mascarpone Icing
So I know this post was supposed to be about peanuts and squirrels and life and was actually meant to go up on Valentine's Day, but stuff happens (like a broken in two places toe), so it will be the next post. Instead, I have to tell you about some gluten-free chocolate muffins I made a while back; I meant to post these before now because I wanted Béa of La Tartine Gourmande to see what she'd started in this house, and the Monthly Mingle deadline is today too so bombs away.

Before I say anything else, let me state a couple of things: 1) No I'm not turning into a gluten-free baker, if there's anything I love in life besides my family, it's gluten; I just haven't posted many gluten-free recipes here but 2) I do have gluten-intolerant friends and friends with food allergies (this is for you Chlōe) so I do like to keep some recipes on hand to bake for them when I need to, plus if the flavor and texture you're trying to recreate is not incredibly complex, it's not difficult to substitute in gluten-free flours without noticing the difference.
Gluten Free Pear Chocolate Muffins
Anyway, we're constantly in boxes here, packing, unpacking, packing, unpacking; so if you can believe it, I found a 1Kg bar of Varhona chocolate in one of the boxes a few weeks ago which I had purchased at La Grande Epicerie in Paris back when I was pregnant, and though it hadn't actually gotten old even though the use by date was October 2009, I felt I owed it to our bellies and general well-being to use it as quickly as possible; also, it's cold which everyone knows is perfect chocolate weather. You will be seeing more results of this massive chocolate usage in forthcoming posts, but let's stick to the muffins for now.

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Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Bread Pudding when I dream of snow...

I dream of snow 1-1
Although I'd agree with anyone that there are just some kinds of cold days that are beyond miserable, I have to say I'm a cold weather kind of gal at heart. I love winter clothing, wrapping up in thick sweaters, trying different kinds of knots in my scarves every day (I wouldn't be a real French girl if I didn't have a drawer full of scarves and at least five different ways of putting them on), cradling a cup of hot chocolate or a steaming bowl of soup in my cold hands and then savoring them slowly, letting the warmth seep through me, all things I am happy for every time the calendar hits December.

Unfortunately, my ideal winter and the one I actually get here are two rather different things. I suppose I should be thankful that we don't get three feet of snow at a time the way my sister and her family do in Chicago, but a little snow once in a while would be nice, and by that I don't mean snow that I might see if I were up between 6:00 and 6:17am before it has essentially vanished, making one doubt it was ever here to begin with.
Last year there was one such day, unexpectedly. Granted, it caused the whole nation to grind to a halt and I did lock myself out of the house that morning while walking the "one who brings the crazy." But even while heavily pregnant, somewhat inappropriately dressed, trying to control one very spazzy dog reconnecting with something in her Dutch, barge-pulling, canine DNA, and walking over to the hotel nearby to call A. to come home and let me in, I was still thoroughly charmed by the six inches of snow through which I was trudging. Call me crazy.
Bread Pudding on Cold Days

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Monday, February 1, 2010

Norwegian Coffee Cake: A Yeast-Averse Story

If you've read some of my posts before, you've noticed that I don't make a lot of bread, and that on the rare occasions when I do, I mention my aversion to yeast. Well, maybe it's time I admitted that this aversion I have to yeast is mostly due to my often having a packet of yeast in the cupboard that, logically, hardly ever gets used resulting in the yeast becoming so old and ineffective that, when I finally get around to using it, a fair amount of cursing and imprecations is directed at said yeast when my dough still hasn't risen after 3 hours of pilot-lighting, oven-front sitting, steam bathing, etc...
Norwegian Coffee Cake
So imagine my utter delight when, having purchased a brand new shiny packet of yeast a couple of months ago, all my bread endeavors now promptly ferment, bubble and rise and I obtain the bread I was trying to make, my kneading inability notwithstanding.
Really, there are two culprits in this newfound desire I have to actually make bread and brave yeast: their names are Jamie and Deeba. I mentioned both of them in the last post.

What you may not know about them is that Jamie has this fabulous recipe for a chocolate meringue coffee cake on her blog which was the catalyst of my old yeast/new yeast debacle, and Deeba pulls baked goods out of her oven like Mary Poppins pulls whatever she might need out of her bag. So when Jamie declared that she was hosting this month's Bread Baking Day and that the theme of it would be her birthday which was the 28th of January, I felt I really should participate both because she is a dear friend and because she got me to start baking bread. Deeba's contribution was to insist on posting bread after bread after bread, some from the Ottolenghi book which I gave her when she was here for FBC, which heightened my desperation for bread-baking success. 
Norwegian Coffee Cake
So out came the Tassajara Bread Book which I purchased last summer with every intention of making a ton of bread, and which went unused until yesterday when I leafed through it looking purposely for a yeasted recipe (yes there is a whole un-yeasted bread section in there) and came upon this Norwegian coffee cake. Flavored with cardamom, which I love, at its simplest, it seemed just the thing to bake on a chilly Sunday.
I had a bar of Valrhona orange chocolate I needed to use and orange and chocolate being two flavors that marry well with cardamom, half of it went into the bread. I could choose any shape and having never baked challah or any other braided bread before, I decided to try a four-stranded braid. Though I knew I'd gone wrong about halfway through the loaf (past the point where the diagrams ended), it wasn't until after I'd put the bread in the oven that I suddenly understood how the weave worked.

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Tuesday, September 15, 2009

It's done so have some Chocolate Fleur de Sel Macs

Chocolate Macs for a blog redesign
If you've been here before this is a totally new look since the very beginning of this blog. I mean I know at the beginning of the year I said I was going to do all this stuff and then life got in the way, so I changed the header a little bit and changed the widths and everything and that was that for a little while. But since I decided a few weeks ago that I was going to change the blog entirely and make it less about food and a little more about other things like photography and whatever strikes my fancy, it's been bugging me to change it up completely. So this is what I came up with messing around with the code, making some headers with one of my old scanned photographs, and generally tweaking here and there. I hope you like it. If you don't, that's too bad, unless of course it means you want to offer me your coding and graphic design skills for free to make it more the way you'd like it to be.
Tai Chi Main Beach NY
This is also the inaugural post of every post isn't going to be about food anymore, as I said before, sometimes it's just going to be one picture or just a thought or whatever strikes my fancy, or not. Your guess is as good as mine although I'd like to say I think it will be easier for me to post more frequently that way, which will be nice for both me and you. And just for the pleasure of contradicting myself, particularly the part about how this isn't going to be only about food anymore, have some chocolate macarons on me, half of them have fleur de sel on the shells, the other half are plain. They were made from Aran of Cannelle et Vanille's recipe and they are for the previously mentioned Mac-athon organized by Jamie of Life's a Feast. They're not beautiful like Aran's but they sure do taste good. The filling is a chocolate mousse sort of concoction conjured up from the same batch of Swiss meringue and fromage frais mixture that went into the filling for the mango macs. And with that I leave you my friends.
Chocolate Macs for a blog redesign

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Wednesday, August 5, 2009

I'm ONLY 10 Days Late = DB Mallomars = Alert the Media!

Post in Progress... Betcha ya didn't think I was tellin' the truth about makin' the DB Challenge in my last post didja?....

Birthday Flowers

These are some of the four dozen roses and other flowers that A. got me for my birthday on Saturday. Purty huh... I'm not really a flowers kinda gal (don't get me wrong, I love flowers, but receiving flowers is not something I long for, I'm more of an "equipment" type of gal on the longing scale).

And this is one of the goodies that baby Saffron let me get into the kitchen to make over the last two weeks. Yep, between the three or four 30mn naps she takes a day, it took me that long to get these done from when I started them on the 26th (yeah, the day before I should have posted them, wanna make something of it?) Working on the post now, you'll see all of it when I'm done and not a minute sooner. Hold your water.

DB Mallomars

I know y'all probably have mallow(mars - see below) coming out of your ears right now, but what's done is done, and since I even took some damn pictures while I was making them, you're stuck with this write-up now.
The July Daring Bakers' challenge was hosted by Nicole at Sweet Tooth. She chose Chocolate Covered Marshmallow Cookies and Milan Cookies from pastry chef Gale Gand of the Food Network.

You could make either one or both so I chose to make the mallomars (let's call a spade a spade, shall we) because Pepperidge Farm and I have had a relationship over the years that was exclusively centered on their Milano cookies and I'm just not ready to give that up right now. Also I wanted to try my hand at marshmallows.
Naturally, the first thing I did was use a different recipe for the base than the one given which was a shortbread recipe. I figure if I'm making a cookie that has marshmallow and chocolate, I might as well make a cookie base that's graham cracker and make a s'more. So of course in my time of need, I turned to Deb of Smitten Kitchen and her adaptation of Nancy Silverton's recipe for graham crackers. What's that you say? you think Deb's the bomb too? I know, and trust me, if there ever was something that Deb was right about, and Deb is right about a lot of things in the kitchen, it would have to be how good these graham crackers are. Better than any other graham cracker and certainly better than the store-bought ones
DB Mallomars
I made half the recipe in her post anticipating that that should be plenty, and indeed it was. I felt like playing around with some cookie cutters I hardly ever use and made both fluted and plain cookies. They were one and a half inches in diameter.
DB Mallomars
I think I underbeat the marshmallow batter just a touch but they stayed put anyway once on the cookie rounds. I improvised a piping bag and tip (as mine are packed away somewhere) with a ziploc bag and out they came.
DB Mallomars
As for the chocolate glaze, I think the recipe's is too thin, I used 1.5 ounces of sunflower oil instead of 2 and it still hardly set and melted very quickly once between my fingers. I think it might be preferable to do some sort of very thin ganache or something, anything that would set a little more sturdily.
DB Mallomars
Yeah yeah, I didn't temper the chocolate, have you seen the title of this post? I'm 10 days late people, these look good enough and taste good too, right now that's about where I set the bar.

DB Mallomars

Thanks for listening. By the way, in case anyone cares, this month (well last month now) was the 2nd anniversary of my being a Daring Baker. Two years. I'm not sure how much longer I'm going to keep at it but it's been fun. At some point I have to do the 6 or so challenges that I've missed in that time between the ones I missed when I was getting married, being pregnant and having the papoose (I guess you could say it's my 1.5 year anniversary then).

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Monday, May 11, 2009

Chocolate Love & Vegetable Color

My Maison du Chocolat Yumminess

In this context, I am not so witty as the master to entertain you with my kitchen failures, suffice it to say that as wonderfully tasty as salted butter caramel concoctions are, I have ruined enough of them in the kitchen this week (in terms of texture and presentation, not taste) to conclude that I am not mastering my time as a new mother as well as Béa, and to satisfy my craving for salted butter caramel for a little while (or at least until I get in the kitchen again). Now that the little gal is here, I'm suddenly so inspired to bake, cook and blog up a storm, but I'm irrationally nervous about her needing me every time I go into the kitchen and as a result my mind is only half on what I'm doing in there. Must be that whole as soon as you can't do something, you desperately want to be doing it again, and I have been neglecting this blog so.

That said, my absence from the interwebs does not mean that I don't eat or that I don't enjoy eating these days (far from it, in fact I don't see these extra pounds vanishing as fast as I'd like them to, but not eating whatever I want is as appealing as shoving a fork in my eye, so they'll just have to take their sweet time going away). So, to console me from my pastry failures and for my first Mother's Day (I have step-children but he meant it in the you-made-this-baby way), A. made me pick out a pound of chocolates at the La Maison du Chocolat counter at Horrid's yesterday while he went to the meat counter. I picked a few of just about everything they had except for the alcohol-filled chocolates (while we love us some booze in other instances, neither A. nor I have ever cared for alcohol in chocolates). I know, my life is hard.

Purple Asparagus

In a nod to that most brilliant ingredient photographer out there Haalo, I took pictures of some of the lovely colorful vegetables that A. brought home to make my Mother's Day dinner. Of course I didn't do them justice the way Haalo does, but since I'd never seen purple asparagus before and it is actually a very-short lived veg (in season 6 weeks of the year), and I often overlook round courgettes but these were such a gorgeous lemony color, here they are for your (perhaps) viewing pleasure. A. made us Moroccan meatballs with raita, sauteed horsehoe mushrooms and yellow courgettes, and grilled the asparagus (which were so loaded with flavor, I'm hunting them down every year from now on). It was delish. I love my husband.
Happy belated Mother's Day to all you mothers out there.

Yellow Courgettes

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Saturday, February 28, 2009

A Chocolate Valentine for the DBs

Chocolate Valentino

This is going to be short because I don't tend to spend a lot of time at the computer these days since it's not very comfortable for me. I've been neglecting this space mostly because I haven't been eating anything exciting since pretty much everything that I eat is very healthy and very plain so as to minimize common digestive misfortunes of pregnancy which, I'm happy to say, is working pretty well right now. But no matter how much I neglect this place, I usually come back for the last hurrah of the month also known as the Daring Bakers' Challenge.

Fortunately for me and my current fatigue, the challenge this month was very simple. A chocolate Valentino cake and an ice cream of our choice (we were given vanilla ice cream recipes just in case). I can't eat either of those things at the moment, but other souls in this house are happy to partake. Originally, I had all sorts of ideas for what I would do with this challenge since we were free to choose shapes and flavors and things (we were left free to pick the chocolate we would use since this recipe consists simply of chocolate, eggs and butter and the resulting cake would taste exactly like the kind of chocolate we picked), but when push came to shove I was too tired to go with the whole shebang and the little one is getting to feel quite heavy now, so outside of my walks, I minimize the standing around when I can, thus the very simple and very plain endeavors you see here.

I made the cake twice, once for my beloved A.'s birthday a few days ago and then again yesterday. The first time the cake came out quite dense so I decided to make chocolate bars out of it with the help of a little melted chocolate and some cocoa powder, the second time the cake rose and then never deflated in the little cupcake containers I'd decided to bake it in. Both times I made pistachio ice cream to go with it, although the pistachio ice cream that went with the chocolate bar is a middle eastern version which is made without eggs and with mastica which gives it a slightly chewy texture that I just love because that is the texture of Persian ice cream, whereas the ice cream with the little chocolate valentino cupcakes is a normal Western custard recipe. When it's a little more comfortable to hang out here, I will give you the recipe for the Middle Eastern ice cream.
Anyway, that's about all I have to say about that. I apologize for the pictures, even with a tripod it's hard to maneuver around with a big watermelon in front of you, especially when you forget to take your pictures in the daytime! Only 4 more weeks...

The February 2009 challenge is hosted by Wendy of WMPE's blog and Dharm of Dad ~ Baker & Chef.
We have chosen a Chocolate Valentino cake by Chef Wan; a Vanilla Ice Cream recipe from Dharm and a Vanilla Ice Cream recipe from Wendy as the challenge.


Chocolate Valentino
Preparation Time: 20 minutes

16 ounces (1 pound) (454 grams) of semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped
½ cup (1 stick) plus 2 tablespoons (146 grams total) of unsalted butter
5 large eggs separated

1. Put chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl and set over a pan of simmering water (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water) and melt, stirring often.
2. While your chocolate butter mixture is cooling. Butter your pan and line with a parchment circle then butter the parchment.
3. Separate the egg yolks from the egg whites and put into two medium/large bowls.
4. Whip the egg whites in a medium/large grease free bowl until stiff peaks are formed (do not over-whip or the cake will be dry).
5. With the same beater beat the egg yolks together.
6. Add the egg yolks to the cooled chocolate.
7. Fold in 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture and follow with remaining 2/3rds. Fold until no white remains without deflating the batter. {link of folding demonstration}
8. Pour batter into prepared pan, the batter should fill the pan 3/4 of the way full, and bake at 375F/190C
9. Bake for 25 minutes until an instant read thermometer reads 140F/60C.
Note – If you do not have an instant read thermometer, the top of the cake will look similar to a brownie and a cake tester will appear wet.
10. Cool cake on a rack for 10 minutes then unmold.

Chocolate Valentino Bar

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Sunday, December 28, 2008

Hosting The Daring Bakers' December Challenge: A Bûche de Noël

Hosting the Daring Bakers' December '08 Challenge
[Version en Français à venir tout en bas]

Once upon a time, there was a six-months pregnant lady who loved to bake but was having a hard time with all things kitchen and particularly baking-related because she was pregnant. A year and a half before this moment, she'd joined the Daring Bakers and, a few months after that, she'd snatched a vacant spot in the hosting schedule. At least even as she was just pregnant but didn't know it, she'd had the presence of mind to ask her friend Marion if she would host the challenge with her. This turned out to be her best move by far because hosting with Marion brought its fair share of smart choices and laughs about what the challenge recipe should be. (Marion, btw, is having technical difficulties with her blog and is away on vacation right now, so she will not be able to post her challenge until the New Year).

What Marion and I asked the Daring Bakers to do this month is a Yule Log in the French style which is an entremets or cream dessert in English for those who don't know what an entremets is; as such it was not imperative that it be made as a log or as a Christmas dinner dessert. In France yule logs you might encounter at a Christmas Eve dinner are fairly evenly divided between the rolled genoise and buttercream type which we made last Christmas and this kind which is a layered dessert with mousse or ice cream as its main component and various inserts.

In searching for a recipe that we both liked and both wanted to make, Marion came up with a fantastic website called Florilège Gourmand written by a woman named Flore (thus Flor-ilège Gourmand, Florilège means a collection of remarkable things or an anthology in French). She seems to be a kitchen fairy who is constantly coming up with more delicious-looking desserts one than the next, and so we decided to build a basic recipe for our challenge out of components from various entremets recipes on her website. Thus was born the Daring Bakers' December 2008 Challenge.

Hosting the Daring Bakers' December '08 Challenge

The recipe calls for the following 6 elements: A Dacquoise (a nut meringue), a mousse with a stabilizing component that will allow it to freeze smoothly, a creme brulee insert, a ganache insert, a praline feuillete insert (a chocolate, praline, and crushed crunchy cookie layer), and icing. Essentially the log is composed of the dacquoise as a base with the mousse and inserts interlayered over it and icing to finish the whole thing off. The dacquoise can be used all around the log rather than just as a base, and this option was given, but I chose to make mine more an as entremets so with dacquoise as the base only.
We are now somewhere close to 1600 active Daring Bakers and Marion and I knew that, given that there are 6 elements in this recipe and that not everyone likes chocolate (gasp), it would be better if we let the DBers have as much freedom as possible, so we gave the Bakers as much latitude as they wanted to pick and choose their own flavor combinations and the only rule we set forth was that they needed to make all 6 of the recipe elements.

My log is composed of pecan dacquoise, chocolate-caramel ganache, banana mousse, pecan praline feuillete (with dark chocolate instead of milk and cigarettes russes cookies for the crunch - and here I confess that having used those, I was inspired by Aran of Cannelle et Vanille to surround my log with them in the same fashion as her decoration for the last DB challenge), chocolate-cardamom creme brulee, and milk chocolate icing.
Since I'd made all of the elements except for the praline feuillete at one point or another in my baking lifetime, and as the praline feuillete recipe is very simple, I knew this would be more of an issue of organization than anything else. I do, however, have to point out that when one is suffering from pregnancy brain (aka what's my name again? what am I doing here?), doing anything that requires concentration and organization can be a formidable challenge. I mean, seriously people, my Dad called me on the phone the other day and the sound was terrible so I told him I would hang up and call him right back, and I hung up...and forgot to call him back. There's also the issue of carrying a basketball around in front of you (aka directly in the way of everything) which can hamper your center of gravity and general dexterity. Generally speaking, in spite of pregnancy brain striking along the way such as when I restarted the mixer after stopping it because the Italian meringue for the mousse was done (has a tendency to kinda ruin your Italian meringue, but I salvaged it), measured and cooked only one measure of sugar for the praline (when I was doubling the recipe) before adding the pecans (I added sugar and winged caramelizing it so that turned out ok too), and being pretty sure that I did not portion out the mousse correctly when I put the log together, the log came together nicely and the only major challenge was my overall fatigue, especially since the little squatter (as we call her) has a tendency to watch Bruce Lee movies and try to emulate them in there, which can be quite painful sometimes.
Here are a couple of things I thought would be useful to point out for any of the Bakers (or anyone else) who would make this recipe again (or for the first time):
- In our private forum, many of the bakers who wrote about their log-making experience said that their creme brulee was very icy and did not melt as fast as the rest of the log, causing difficulty in slicing the log. I thought about this for a little bit and after making my own creme brulee, which was not icy, realized that the issue here is probably one of fat content in the cream and the milk. If you've made ice cream before you may catch on to what I'm getting at immediately. The reason you want to use whole milk with as much cream as possible in it (as in not whole milk that's been pasteurized to the point of oblivion), and heavy cream that has at least 35% fat content in it, is that fat does not freeze. The ice cream champion himself, David Lebovitz, devoted a post to the issue of obtaining ice cream rather than just ice sometime last year and I believe this was one of his main points.
- Another issue having to do with the creme brulee was that the recipe calls for baking it at 100C (210F) for one hour. Again, many of the bakers seemed to have trouble with this because their creme brulee would not set in that amount of time. Since I only had to cook my creme brulee for 10 more minutes than stated in the recipe at the stated temperature, there are two main things which strike me about this issue: The first is that the higher the fat content in your milk and cream, the more quickly they will thicken when cooking, so fat content is important in this regard as well as in managing your creme not being icy. The second thing is that if you do not have an oven thermometer, you really cannot know how accurate your oven's temperature is, no matter how many other things you may have been able to cook in it at temperatures you were given in other recipes. That's not a matter of my being difficult about keeping this recipe the way it is, it is just a statement of fact (and as someone who worked with an oven that kept no consistent temperature at all but who managed to make many of the DB challenges and other pastries with it because I had an oven thermometer, albeit with strange cooking times, it makes sense). Well-known pastry chef Pierre Herme states that you should have an oven thermometer, as a basic kitchen utensil to save you major headaches, before trying the recipes in several of his books.

Hosting the Daring Bakers' December '08 Challenge

And now to some of my thoughts about hosting this challenge: First, a big thank you and gros bisous to Marion for being so much fun to work with; I couldn't have picked a better co-host. Second, thank you Lis and Ivonne for creating this group at all and for letting me host this month to begin with, you are brave souls; a big thank you to Daring Baker Fairy Tartelette for providing help with recipe variations, general guidance, and listening to my kvetching. A huge thanks to Flore of Florilege Gourmand for graciously letting us use her recipes.
Although I know there were Bakers out there who were unhappy with the choice of recipe for various reasons, whether it be the perceived length of it, the perceived cost, or really anything else, Marion and I knew that we couldn't put up a recipe that was going to please everyone, not with 1600 people to consider, so we went with a recipe that neither one of us had made before, that we felt would challenge most of the bakers with the exception of our pastry chef and very advanced members, and out of which we could be sure that most of us would learn at least one thing provided the recipes were followed. The keywords here are challenge and learn, remembering that the name of this group is the Daring Bakers and that the dictionary definition of Daring is "venturesomely bold in action or thought." I know some of the Bakers hated this recipe because it didn't work out for them, but I just want to remind them that the spirit of the group is to try new things and to stretch your baking limits, trying it and challenging yourself is what matters, not whether you had a perfect outcome or loved the taste of the outcome (although the taste thing would obviously be preferable). For the Bakers who enjoyed this challenge and especially those Bakers who wrote comments to me or Marion to say that they were scared but looked forward to it or were pleased to have challenged themselves through it, Mazel Tov, we are very happy that you took pleasure in trying this out and we appreciate your comments because we worked very hard to put this recipe together.

Hosting the Daring Bakers' December '08 Challenge
Having said that and stepped down from my tower, here is the basic recipe (without all the variations we offered up on the DB website) for a French-style yule log or entremets by Flore of Florilege Gourmand:

You probably will want to make the elements in this order because of what you can get done while some elements are baking and given some of the prep times:
1) Creme Brulee
2) Praline Feuillete (Crisp)
3) Mousse
4) Dacquoise
5) Ganache
6) Icing

Element #1 Dacquoise Biscuit (Almond Cake)

Preparation time: 10 mn + 15 mn for baking
Equipment: 2 mixing bowls, hand or stand mixer with whisk attachment, spatula, baking pan such as a 10”x15” jelly-roll pan, parchment paper
Note: You can use the Dacquoise for the bottom of your Yule Log only, or as bottom and top layers, or if using a Yule log mold (half-pipe) to line your entire mold with the biscuit. Take care to spread the Dacquoise accordingly. Try to bake the Dacquoise the same day you assemble the log to keep it as moist as possible.

Ingredients:
2.8 oz (3/4cup + 1Tbsp / 80g) almond meal
1.75 oz (1/2 cup / 50g) confectioner’s sugar
2Tbsp (15g) all-purpose flour
3.5oz (100g / ~100ml) about 3 medium egg whites
1.75 oz (4 Tbsp / 50g) granulated sugar

1. Finely mix the almond meal and the caster sugar. (If you have a mixer, you can use it by pulsing the ingredients together for no longer than 30 seconds).
2. Sift the flour into the mix.
3. Beat the eggs whites, gradually adding the granulated sugar until stiff.
4. Pour the almond meal mixture into the egg whites and blend delicately with a spatula.
5. Grease a piece of parchment paper and line your baking pan with it.
6. Spread the batter on a piece of parchment paper to an area slightly larger than your desired shape (circle, long strip etc...) and to a height of 1/3 inches (8mm).
7. Bake at 350°F (180°C) for approximately 15 minutes (depends on your oven), until golden.
8. Let cool and cut to the desired shape.

Element #2 Dark Chocolate Mousse

Preparation time: 20mn
Equipment: stand or hand mixer with whisk attachment, thermometer, double boiler or equivalent, spatula
Note: You will see that a Pate a Bombe is mentioned in this recipe. A Pate a Bombe is a term used for egg yolks beaten with a sugar syrup, then aerated. It is the base used for many mousse and buttercream recipes. It makes mousses and buttercreams more stable, particularly if they are to be frozen, so that they do not melt as quickly or collapse under the weight of heavier items such as the crème brulee insert.

Ingredients:
2.5 sheets gelatin or 5g / 1+1/4 tsp powdered gelatin
1.5 oz (3 Tbsp / 40g) granulated sugar
1 ½ tsp (10g) glucose or thick corn syrup
0.5 oz (15g) water
50g egg yolks (about 3 medium)
6.2 oz (175g) dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
1.5 cups (350g) heavy cream (35% fat content)

1. Soften the gelatin in cold water. (If using powdered gelatin, follow the directions on the package.)
2. Make a Pate a Bombe: Beat the egg yolks until very light in colour (approximately 5 minutes until almost white).
2a. Cook the sugar, glucose syrup and water on medium heat for approximately 3 minutes (if you have a candy thermometer, the mixture should reach 244°F (118°C). If you do not have a candy thermometer, test the sugar temperature by dipping the tip of a knife into the syrup then into a bowl of ice water, if it forms a soft ball in the water then you have reached the correct temperature.
2b. Add the sugar syrup to the beaten yolks carefully by pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream while continuing to beat the yolks. You can do this by hand but it’s easier to do this with an electric mixer.
2c. Continue beating until cool (approximately 5 minutes). The batter should become thick and foamy.
3. In a double boiler (or one small saucepan in a larger one), heat 2 tablespoons (30g) of cream to boiling. Add the chopped chocolate and stir until melted and smooth.
4. Whip the rest of the cream until stiff.
5. Pour the melted chocolate over the softened gelatin, mixing well. Let the gelatin and chocolate cool slightly and then stir in ½ cup (100g) of WHIPPED cream to temper. Add the Pate a Bombe.
6. Add in the rest of the whipped cream (220g) mixing gently with a spatula.

Element #3 Dark Chocolate Ganache Insert

Preparation time: 10mn
Equipment: pan, whisk. If you have a plunging mixer it comes in handy.
Note: Because the ganache hardens as it cools, you should make it right before you intend to use it to facilitate piping it onto the log during assembly. Please be careful when caramelizing the sugar and then adding the cream. It may splatter and boil.

Ingredients:
1.75 oz (4 Tbsp / 50g) granulated sugar
4.5oz (2/3 cup – 1 Tbsp/ 135g) heavy cream (35% fat content)
5 oz (135g) dark chocolate, finely chopped
3Tbsp + 1/2tsp (45g) unsalted butter softened

1. Make a caramel: Using the dry method, melt the sugar by spreading it in an even layer in a small saucepan with high sides. Heat over medium-high heat, watching it carefully as the sugar begins to melt. Never stir the mixture. As the sugar starts to melt, swirl the pan occasionally to allow the sugar to melt evenly. Cook to dark amber color (for most of you that means darker than last month’s challenge).
2. While the sugar is melting, heat the cream until boiling. Pour cream into the caramel and stir thoroughly. Be very careful as it may splatter and boil.
3. Pour the hot caramel-milk mixture over the dark chocolate. Wait 30 seconds and stir until smooth.
4. Add the softened butter and whip hard and fast (if you have a plunging mixer use it). The chocolate should be smooth and shiny.

Element #4 Praline Feuillete (Crisp) Insert

Preparation time: 10 mn (+ optional 15mn if you make lace crepes)
Equipment: Small saucepan, baking sheet (if you make lace crepes).
Double boiler (or one small saucepan in another), wax paper, rolling pin (or use an empty bottle of olive oil).
Note: Feuillete means layered (as in with leaves) so a Praline Feuillete is a Praline version of a delicate crisp. There are non-praline variations below. The crunch in this crisp comes from an ingredient which is called gavottes in French. Gavottes are lace-thin crepes. To our knowledge they are not available outside of France, so you have the option of making your own using the recipe below or you can simply substitute rice krispies or corn flakes or Special K for them. If you do substitute cereal you should use half of the stated quantity, so 1 oz of cereal.
If you want to make your own praline, please refer back to the Daring Baker Challenge Recipe from July 2008 over at Mele Cotte.

To make 2.1oz / 60g of gavottes (lace crepes - recipe by Ferich Mounia):
1/3 cup (80ml) whole milk
2/3 Tbsp (8g) unsalted butter
1/3 cup – 2tsp (35g) all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp / 0.5 oz (15g) beaten egg
1 tsp (3.5g) granulated sugar
½ tsp vegetable oil
1. Heat the milk and butter together until butter is completely melted. Remove from the heat.
2. Sift flour into milk-butter mixture while beating, add egg and granulated sugar. Make sure there are no lumps.
3. Grease a baking sheet and spread batter thinly over it.
4. Bake at 430°F (220°C) for a few minutes until the crepe is golden and crispy. Let cool.

Ingredients for the Praline Feuillete:
3.5 oz (100g) milk chocolate
1 2/3 Tbsp (25g) butter
2 Tbsp (1 oz / 30g) praline
2.1oz (60g) lace crepes(gavottes) or rice krispies or corn flakes or Special K

1. Melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler.
2. Add the praline and the coarsely crushed lace crepes. Mix quickly to thoroughly coat with the chocolate.
3. Spread between two sheets of wax paper to a size slightly larger than your desired shape. Refrigerate until hard.

Element #5 Vanilla Crème Brulée Insert

Preparation time: 15mn + 1h infusing + 1h baking
Equipment: Small saucepan, mixing bowl, baking mold, wax paper
Note: The vanilla crème brulée can be flavored differently by simply replacing the vanilla with something else e.g. cardamom, lavender, etc...

Ingredients:
1/2 cup (115g) heavy cream (35% fat content)
½ cup (115g) whole milk
4 medium-sized (72g) egg yolks
0.75 oz (2 Tbsp / 25g) granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean

1. Heat the milk, cream, and scraped vanilla bean to just boiling. Remove from the stove and let the vanilla infuse for about 1 hour.
2. Whisk together the sugar and egg yolks (but do not beat until white).
3. Pour the vanilla-infused milk over the sugar/yolk mixture. Mix well.
4. Wipe with a very wet cloth and then cover your baking mold (whatever shape is going to fit on the inside of your Yule log/cake) with parchment paper. Pour the cream into the mold and bake at 210°F (100°C) for about 1 hour or until firm on the edges and slightly wobbly in the center.
Tartelette says: You can bake it without a water bath since it is going to go inside the log (the aesthetics of it won't matter as much since it will be covered with other things)....BUT I would recommend a water bath for the following reasons:
- you will get a much nicer mouth feel when it is done
- you will be able to control its baking point and desired consistency much better
- it bakes for such a long time that I fear it will get overdone without a water bath
Now...since it is baked in a pan and it is sometimes difficult to find another large pan to set it in for a water bath, even a small amount of water in your water bath will help the heat be distributed evenly in the baking process. Even as little as 1 inch will help.
5. Let cool and put in the freezer for at least 1 hour to firm up and facilitate the final assembly.

Element #6 Dark Chocolate Icing

Preparation time: 25 minutes (10mn if you don’t count softening the gelatin)
Equipment: Small bowl, small saucepan
Note: Because the icing gelifies quickly, you should make it at the last minute.

Ingredients:
4g / ½ Tbsp powdered gelatin or 2 sheets gelatin
¼ cup (60g) heavy cream (35 % fat content)
2.1 oz (5 Tbsp / 60g) granulated sugar
¼ cup (50g) water
1/3 cup (30g) unsweetened cocoa powder

1. Soften the gelatin in cold water for 15 minutes.
2. Boil the rest of the ingredients and cook an additional 3 minutes after boiling.
3. Add gelatin to the chocolate mixture. Mix well.
4. Let cool while checking the texture regularly. As soon as the mixture is smooth and coats a spoon well (it is starting to gelify), use immediately.

How To Assemble your French Yule Log

THIS IS FOR UNMOLDING FROM UPSIDE DOWN TO RIGHT SIDE UP.
You will want to tap your mold gently on the countertop after each time you pipe mousse in to get rid of any air bubbles.

1) Line your mold or pan, whatever its shape, with rhodoid (clear hard plastic, I usually use transparencies cut to the desired shape, it’s easier to find than cellulose acetate which is what rhodoid translates to in English) OR saran wrap or cling film. Rhodoid will give you a smoother shape but you may have a hard time using it depending on the kind of mold you’re using.

You have two choices for Step 2, you can either have Dacquoise on the top and bottom of your log as in version A or you can have Dacquoise simply on the bottom of your log as in version B:

2A) Cut the Dacquoise into a shape fitting your mold and set it in there. If you are using an actual Yule mold which is in the shape of a half-pipe, you want the Dacquoise to cover the entire half-pipe portion of the mold.
3A) Pipe one third of the Mousse component on the Dacquoise.
4A) Take the Creme Brulee Insert out of the freezer at the last minute and set on top of the mousse. Press down gently to slightly ensconce it in the mousse.
5A) Pipe second third of the Mousse component around and on top of the Creme Brulee Insert.
6A) Cut the Praline/Crisp Insert to a size slightly smaller than your mold so that it can be surrounded by mousse. Lay it on top of the mousse you just piped into the mold.
7A) Pipe the last third of the Mousse component on top of the Praline Insert.
8A) Freeze for a few hours to set. Take out of the freezer.
9A) Pipe the Ganache Insert onto the frozen mousse leaving a slight edge so that ganache doesn’t seep out when you set the Dacquoise on top.
10A) Close with the last strip of Dacquoise.
Freeze until the next day.

OR

2B) Pipe one third of the Mousse component into the mold.
3B) Take the Creme Brulee Insert out of the freezer at the last minute and set on top of the mousse. Press down gently to slightly ensconce it in the mousse.
4B) Pipe second third of the Mousse component around and on top of the Creme Brulee Insert.
5B) Cut the Praline/Crisp Insert to a size slightly smaller than your mold so that it can be surrounded by mousse. Lay it on top of the mousse you just piped into the mold.
6B) Pipe the last third of the Mousse component on top of the Praline Insert.
7B) Freeze for a few hours to set. Take out of the freezer.
8B) Pipe the Ganache Insert onto the frozen mousse leaving a slight edge so that ganache doesn’t seep out when you set the Dacquoise on top.
9B) Close with the Dacquoise.
Freeze until the next day.

If you are doing the assembly UPSIDE DOWN with TWO pieces of Dacquoise the order is:
1) Dacquoise
2) Mousse
3) Creme Brulee Insert
4) Mousse
5) Praline/Crisp Insert
6) Mousse
7) Ganache Insert
8) Dacquoise

If you are doing the assembly UPSIDE DOWN with ONE piece of Dacquoise on the BOTTOM ONLY the order is:
1) Mousse
2) Creme Brulee Insert
3) Mousse
4) Praline/Crisp Insert
5) Mousse
6) Ganache Insert
7) Dacquoise

THE NEXT DAY...
Unmold the log and set on a wire rack over a shallow pan.
Cover the log with the icing.
Let set. Return to the freezer.
You may decorate your cake however you wish. The decorations can be set in the icing after it sets but before you return the cake to the freezer or you may attach them on top using extra ganache or leftover mousse, etc...
Transfer to the refrigerator no longer than ½ hour before serving as it may start to melt quickly depending on the elements you chose.

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Monday, December 15, 2008

Chocolate-Orange Creams - Pots de Creme Chocolat-Orange

Chocolate Orange Creams
These little guys were born of three things: One is a bunch of leftover egg yolks after making some buttercream frosting for a Daring Baker cake, another is from seeing this recipe on the good baking fairy Tartelette's website, and the third is a forlorn tablet of Valrhona orange chocolate that I had forgotten about in one of the cupboards.

FR: Ces pots de crèmes sont nés de trois circonstances: D'abord, plein de jaunes d'oeufs qui me restaient après avoir fait de la crème au beurre pour un défi des Daring Bakers, ensuite cette recette sur le site de la bonne fée pâtissière Tartelette, et finalement une tablette de chocolat-orange Valrhona qui se morfondait dans un de mes placards.

Chocolate-Orange Creams

Custard-style creams are one of my favorite things because they make me think of home, and France is home even though many other places have been and are home as well. My most favorite thing is a good strawberry tartlet the way it's made in France, a sable crust with a layer of almondine cream, a layer of custard cream, strawberries and glaze. I don't care much for other styles of fruit pies, give me custard on a fruit pie or give me nothing is what I say.

FR: Les crèmes du genre patissiêre sont une de mes choses préférées parce qu'elle me font penser à chez moi, et la France c'est chez moi même si plusieurs autres endroits ont été et sont chez moi aussi. Mon truc préféré c'est une bonne tartelette aux fraises comme on les fait en France, avec une pâte sablée, une couche de crème amandine, une couche de crème pâtissière, des fraises et de la gelée ou de l'abricotage adapté. Je n'aime pas tellement les autres genres de tartes aux fruits (telles celles des Américains), donnez-moi de la crème d'un genre ou d'un autre sur ma tarte aux fruits ou rien du tout, voilà ce que j'en dis.

Chocolate-Orange Creams

Anyway, these are the easiest thing in the world to make and Tartelette's recipe is quick and light in the end, even if one has a broken oven, which was the case back when I made these. (For interested parties, what was wrong with the oven that eventually imploded was that the knobs had somehow been installed to turn the wrong way, which meant that even though we could turn the oven on, when we'd set a temperature, the wiring wouldn't actually control the temperature at all. Sometimes, when I think about it now, I am amazed that we got anything to cook properly in there - by we I mean A. making roasts and me making cakes and things like these little creams). If you like chocolate, they are definitely, as Tartelette points out in her post, the quickest and best homemade comfort dessert around.

FR: Enfin, c'est la chose la plus facile du monde à faire et la recette de Tartelette est simple et légère, même si on utilise un four cassé, comme c'était le cas pour moi quand j'ai fait ces petits pots. (Pour les intéressés, le four qui a finalement implosé était cassé de la manière suivante, les manettes avaient été installées pour tourner dans la mauvaise direction - comment cela est-il arrivé, mystère - ce qui signifiait que nous pouvions allumer le four mais que les contacts ne controlaient pas la température choisie du tout. Des fois quand j'y pense je me demande comment nous avons fait pour faire cuire n'importe quoi correctement dedans - par nous je veux dire A. faisant rôtir des choses et moi faisant des gâteaux et autres choses comme ces petites crèmes). En tout cas, si vous aimez le chocolat, comme Tartelette le dit dans son billet, ces petits pots sont les meilleurs desserts rapides et réconfortants de possible fait maison.

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Monday, November 24, 2008

Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies for the Boys

I know I've been neglecting this blog woefully, and the truth is I haven't been in the kitchen much because I don't feel that great all the time, on top of which lately we'd been packing up to move to the U.S. so the combination of being almost 5 months pregnant and packing to move trans-atlantically was not conducive to finding more time to be in the kitchen, but sometimes there are really good reasons to be in the kitchen even if you don't really want to be, and this was a doubly good reason as far as I was concerned.

First, although a nun from a local mission was going to come by to take whatever dry foods and ingredients we'd left behind that could be used for the mission's soup kitchen, I wanted to use as much of my large stock of prime ingredients as possible before we left to reduce any waste.

Second A., as a former member of the Armed Forces, was always taking leftover cake and baked goodies (particularly from the Daring Baker challenges) down to the "boys" at the local base. I affectionately refer to them as the boys although the guys who usually eat my baked goods are officers, though there is the occasional 17 year-old private. Anyway, they're all boys to me, and there are rotations of them coming and going back from Iraq and Afghanistan, so it always makes me feel good when he drops baked goods off for those guys because the least anyone can do for them is show them some appreciation for the hard job that they do, and the truth is that they aren't paid handsomely, they aren't even given proper equipment when they go out there, and I know from A.'s testimony that they never get anything close to home-baked goods at the base commissary. (It doesn't hurt my baker's ego either that they eat the stuff I send down there in a matter of literally minutes).

So having a lot of leftover peanut butter and chocolate chips and tons of flour and all sort of other things, and knowing full well that they love peanut butter chocolate chip cookies having made a batch for them once before, I decided to make these PBCC cookies from a recipe I got off of Smitten Kitchen and which comes originally from the Magnolia Bakery.

I made two double batches of these, which made about 200 cookies, and I also made Nestle Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies, though I substituted almond butter for the regular butter and was then forced to add milk and maple syrup to make the dough smoother to work with, but they turned out pretty well anyway. Who knew.

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Sunday, August 31, 2008

Chocolate PH goodness - des Eclairs!!!

Thanks to the wonderful Meeta K. (my friend and sometimes partner in crime) of What's For Lunch Honey? and Tony Tahhan of Olive Juice, this month the Daring Bakers made Chocolate Eclairs by Pierre Hermé, one of the gurus of chocolate, my culinary boyfriend which I share with so many others (he's Meeta's sugar daddy, Hélène's bf before he was mine, and the list goes on...), and generally considered one of the best patissiers (pastry-makers) in the world. I am not short of praise about him because this isn't the first time I've made something by him on this blog.

FR: Remerciements à la fabuleuse Meeta K. (mon amie et complice de temps à autre) de What's For Lunch Honey? et Tony Tahhan de Olive Juice, ce mois-ci les Pâtissiers Téméraires ont fait les Eclairs au Chocolat de Pierre Hermé, un des seigneurs du chocolat, mon homme culinaire que je partage avec tant d'autres (c'est le papa sucre de Meeta, l'homme culinaire d'Hélène bien avant d'être le mien, et ainsi de suite...) et généralement considéré être l'un des meilleurs pâtissiers au monde. Je ne taris pas d'éloges à son égard car ce n'est pas la première fois que je fais une de ses recettes sur ce blog.

But more to the point people, chocolate eclairs: puff pastry, chocolate pastry cream, and chocolate glaze (fondant, ganache, etc...) on top.
Side Note: although I own the Tartine cookbook, I must take exception to Elizabeth M. Prueitt and Chad Robertson's statement that "[f]or some people, an eclair must have a chocolate filling" at the very beginning of their recipe for eclairs. Listen you two, many of your recipes are great, but don't pretend you practice French pastry-making -and learned it in France no less- if you think only some people think chocolate eclairs should have chocolate fillings, I've got a whole nation of French people including myself who've grown up with chocolate and coffee eclairs, and if it's called a chocolate eclair it has chocolate in it, and if it's called a coffee eclair it has coffee in it, capisce? I never saw an "eclair" with the appropriately matched glaze filled with anything other than those two things in my life until I moved to the U.S..
Now if one is talking about puff pastry specifically and not eclairs, well you can fill that with anything you want, so there, thus cream puffs, or cream puffs built into a pyramid known as a piece montee for weddings, or profiteroles, and so on and so forth. Now, Meeta and Tony, in the name of culinary freedom, allowed us to make any flavoring of pastry cream we wanted to put inside. As I am dogmatic I made chocolate because anyway that's my favorite flavor of eclair.

FR: Mais venons-en au faît bonnes gens, des éclairs au chocolat: des choux pâtissiers, de la crème pâtissière au chocolat, et une couverture au chocolat par dessus (fondant, ganache, etc...)
Je ne traduis pas la note que j'ai écrit en Anglais ci-dessus parce qu'elle réfère à un livre de cuisine connu par probablement personne en France, mais j'insiste que si on dit qu'un éclair est au chocolat, il doit contenir de la crème au chocolat, et de même pour un éclair au café, il doit contenir de la crème au café. Maintenant si on parle de choux à la crème ou de pièce montée ou de profiteroles, et bah on met ce qu'on veut dedans, mais un éclair à quelque chose est un éclair avec de la crème à quelque chose dedans. Or, au nom de la liberté de chacun dans sa propre cuisine, Meeta et Tony nous ont permit de mettre n'importe quel parfum de crème pâtissière dans ces éclairs, et étant légèrement psychorigide, j'ai fait des éclairs au chocolat parce que c'est mon parfum préferé de toute manière.

I didn't do a step by step this time, I've been feeling a little out of it for the last few weeks, and considering that my oven imploded the next day, that was probably a good thing because I didn't spend any more time in the kitchen than I needed to.
They don't look fabulous, but they did taste awesome, as could be expected with Pierre my middle name is butter and sugar Herme. I also apologize for the pictures, they could have been better.

FR: Je n'ai pas fait de pas à pas cette fois, ça fait quelques semaines que je ne me sens pas au top de ma forme, et en sachant que le four a implosé le jour suivant, c'était probablement mieux de passer le moins de temps possible dans la cuisine à ce moment-là.
Ils n'ont pas l'air fantastiques mais ils étaient très bon, comme on peut s'attendre avec Pierre mon autre prénom est beurre et sucre Hermé. Je m'excuse aussi pour la qualité des photos, elles auraient pu être mieux.

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Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Filbert (ahem Pecan) Gâteau from The July Daring Bakers

OK ok, so it doesn't look that pretty, it tastes pretty good though. What is it? It's a Pecan variation on Filbert Gateau (which means cake in French) with Praline Buttercream from Great Cakes by Carol Walter, courtesy of our hostess Chris at Mele Cotte (you can find the recipe on her blog). But let me tell you this story in pictures people, pictures because they speak a lot more words than I do.

FR: Bon d'accord, ce n'est pas très joli, mais c'est plutôt bon. Qu'est-ce? C'est une variation sur un Gâteau aux noisettes avec de la crème au beurre pralinée que j'ai fait moi aux noix de pécans et qui vient du livre Great Cakes de Carol Walter, par le biais de notre hôtesse Chris de Mele Cotte (vous pouvez trouver la recette sur son blog). Mais laissez-moi vous raconter cette histoire en images bonnes gens, en images car elles en disent beaucoup plus que moi.

First, we skip the making of the sugar syrup, I mean seriously, water, sugar and some alcohol (I used mead because we had a half bottle left of it that we weren't drinking). So what you see above is the making of the caramel for the pecan praline to come.

FR: D'abord je ne vous impose pas la confection du sirop. C'est de l'eau, du sucre et de l'alcohol non mais (j'ai utilisé de l'hydromel car il nous en restait une demi-bouteille que nous ne buvions pas). Donc ce que vous voyez là est la confection du caramel pour le praliné aux pécans à venir.

"Then onto the parchment lined sheet and spread as evenly as possible." Umm, not so much on the evenly part...

FR: "Puis sur le papier cuisson et étalez aussi également que possible." Moouais, également également, facile à dire hein...

Here the picture speaketh for itself.

FR: Ici la photo parle pour elle-même.

That took a bit of opening the processor, scraping the paste from underneath the blade, and mixing with the unprocessed nuts above the blade. But I got there in the end. The hard part was not eating it before using it in the recipe.

FR: Ca a requis un peu de boulot d'ouvrir le mixer, d'extraire la pâte d'en dessous de la lame et de la mélanger avec les noix encore entières au dessus de la lame. Mais j'en suis arrivée à bout. La vraie difficulté étant de ne pas manger le praliné avant de l'inclure dans la recette.

AHA! This picture is entitled "How I am different." I was talking to A. about what fruits go well with pecans and chocolate, and we both thought bananas might work, so I made a banana jam with this recipe. It may not look very good but if you like bananas as much as I do, I recommend it. It's de-li-cious.

FR: AHA! (bah oui, c'est la même chose en Anglais) cette photo s'intitule "Comment je diffère." Je parlais a A. de quels fruits vont bien avec les noix de pécans et le chocolat, et nous avons tous deux pensés que les bananes se marient bien avec, alors j'ai fait de la confiture de banane avec cette recette. Ca n'a peut-être pas l'air très bon mais si vous aimez les bananes autant que moi, je vous la recommande. C'est dé-li-cieux.

Well, so it's buttercream. First it's Swiss meringue, then it's buttercream. So get over it. (oh, I used Dorie Greenspan's recipe).

FR: Bon, bah c'est de la crème au beurre. D'abord c'est de la meringue suisse, puis c'est de la crème au beurre. Passons. (ah oui, recette de Dorie Greenspan).

Buttercream + Praline = Praline Buttercream = Very yummy.

FR: Crème au Beurre + Praliné = Crème au Beurre Pralinée (ça s'accorde et tout!) = Très bon.

See above.

FR: Voir plus haut.

OK people, I've put the necessary information ON the picture. You figure it out.

FR: Bon, allez hein, explications SUR la photo. Débrouillez-vous.

Crossing the fingers it will cook properly in the crazy oven that doesn't hold any specific temperature. I actually turned it on and off and to different temps and then turned it off the last 15 minutes it was cooking because the oven thermometer was telling me it was holding at 350F and would overheat if I left it on.

FR: Je croise les doigts que ça cuira convenablement dans le four qui n'a pas de sens et ne garde aucune température spécifique. En fait j'ai allumé, éteint et tourne le four à des températures différentes, puis je l'ai éteint les 15 dernières minutes où ça cuisait parce que le thermomètre du four me disait que ça restait à 175C et que ça surchaufferait si je le laissais allumé.

It worked it worked!! And I flipped it upside down to cool and glazed it, and then I stopped paying attention and didn't flip it back right side up to cut it, and that's when it all fell apart.
So I'm not taking you through the last steps because it wasn't pretty to say the least.
-There was the soaking of the cake with syrup which led to the bottom layer falling apart, probably because it should have been the top layer and was not as dense as the actual bottom layer.
-Then the edges coming apart over the cardboard cut out that was slightly smaller than the cake to glaze it.
-Then the figuring out of how to do the further layers because something had to hold the cake together at the bottom.
-Then the buttercream being so soft because it was so hot in the kitchen that it wasn't holding the layers together.
-At least the whipped cream was fine and held fine, so that's one good thing right?
-Then the abandoning of further syrup soaking of the other two layers.
-Then the cutting of the edges coming off resulting in a not very smooth on the outside cake.
-Then the glazing with further banana jam to make it smoother which didn't really work.
The ganache worked out fine and was very good because I used honey instead of corn syrup and mead again instead of some other alcohol. It actually reminded me of the taste of the hot chocolate sauce you get over profiteroles in France.
But then the buttercream was so soft I couldn't get it to pipe out of the piping bag decently, so I just improvised a pecan tree on my cake, with pecans of course to denote a pecan tree. I'm good like that.

A. had two pieces of the cake. I admit that I was so sick of the whole thing by then I just had a taste of it and didn't eat any, but it did taste good. He took the rest of the cake over to the Horse Guards Regiment here where he knows guys and usually takes anything I've baked that's too much for us, and since he'd told them he was coming with cake, there were about 8 or 9 guys waiting for him when he got there, so he decided to time its demise. Apparently it was gone in 3 minutes and 46 seconds. The base commander came by and said he'd heard there was cake, but was about 3 minutes too late. That made me feel good because most of those guys just came back from an extended tour of duty in Afghanistan. It's a good incentive to keep making more stuff for them.

*********************

FR: Ca a marché Ca a marché!! Et je l'ai retourné pour qu'il refroidisse et couvert d'une fine couche de confiture de banane, et puis c'est à ce moment-là que j'ai arrêté de faire attention et je ne l'ai pas retourné avant de le couper, et donc tout le procédé s'est effondré. Alors je ne vous montre pas les dernières étapes parce que ce n'était vraiment pas beau à voir.
-Il y a eu la couche du bas qui s'est disloquée quand je l'ai enduit de sirop, probablement parce que la couche du bas n'était pas aussi dense que celle du haut qui aurait du être la couche du bas.
-Puis les bords se disloquant là où ils n'étaient pas soutenus par le cercle en carton un peu plus petit que le gâteau pour que je puisse couvrir le gâteau de ganache.
-Puis essayer de trouver un moyen de mettre des couches successives par dessus en sachant que la couche du bas ne tenait pas grand chose.
-Puis la crème au beurre n'étant pas assez ferme pour tenir quoi que ce soit parce qu'il faisait tellement chaud dans la cuisine.
-Au moins la crème fouettée était correcte et se tenait bien, donc il y avait au moins ça...
-Puis l'abandon d'enduire les autres couches avec du sirop.
-Puis devoir couper les bords qui se disloquaient, le résultat étant des bords pas lisses du tout.
-Puis essayer de couvrir le gâteau de confiture de banane pour le rendre plus lisse ce qui n'a pas vraiment marché.
La ganache, elle, était très bonne parce que j'ai utilisé du miel plutot que du sirop de mais et de l'hydromel à nouveau plutôt qu'un autre alcool. D'ailleurs cette combinaison m'a rappelé le goût de la sauce au chocolat qu'on verse sur les profiteroles en France.
Mais ensuite comme la crème au beurre était presque liquide, je n'arrivais pas à la faire sortir de ma poche à douille en la contrôlant, donc finalement j'ai improvisé une décoration du genre voilà un arbre à pécan. Ouais je sais, j'suis douée là.

A. a mangé deux morceaux du gâteau. J'avoue que j'en avais marre de tout le truc donc j'en ai juste goûté une fois mais je n'en ai pas mangé, mais c'était bon. Il a emmené le reste du gâteau au régiment des Horse Guards à côté, où il connait des gars et emmène souvent les desserts que je fais que nous ne pouvons pas finir. Comme il leur avait dit qu'il venait avec du gâteau, il y avait 8 ou 9 gars qui l'attendaient, le décidant à chronométrer la vie du gâteau. Apparemment il a disparu en 3 minutes 46 secondes. Le commandant de la base est arrivé, disant qu'il avait entendu dire qu'il y avait du gâteau, mais il avait à peu près 3 minutes de retard. Ca m'a fait plaisir parce que la plupart de ces hommes viennent de rentrer d'une tournée tres longue en Afghanistan. C'est une bonne raison de leur pâtisser plus de choses.

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