Monday, January 28, 2008

Tarte au Citron Meringuée aka LMP - DB January

I know I know... I haven't been posting. Mea Culpa. Life is a little crazy ridiculous right now with all sorts of developments that would take so long to explain here that I simply don't. But one thing never changes, and that is the Daring Bakers' monthly challenge. This month, Jen of The Canadian Baker challenged us to make a Lemon Meringue Pie with the pie portion of the recipe courtesy of Wanda's Pie in the Sky by Wanda Beaver, 2002, and the Tartlet recipe courtesy of Ripe for Dessert, 2003 by our favorite web chef David Lebovitz. You can see the full recipe on Jen's website.
Actually, you've already seen me make lemon tartlets without meringue on top, so for me this recipe was primarily a variation on the methods I normally use. I didn't want to get butter and/or sugar on my camera so I didn't take any pictures while I was making the dough; then I was afraid of pouring water or something else on it while making the filling, so the camera didn't appear in the kitchen until all the elements were ready for assembly.

Le French: Je sais je sais... je n'ai pas écrit de billet depuis un moment. Mea Culpa. Mon existence est un peu folle et dans tous les sens en ce moment et ça mettrait trop longtemps à expliquer ici alors je n'explique pas. Mais une chose ne change pas, c'est le défi mensuel des Pâtissiers Téméraires. Ce mois-ci, Jen de The Canadian Baker nous a défié de faire une tarte au citron meringuée avec les recettes suivantes: La recette pour la garniture de Wanda's Pie in the Sky de Wanda Beaver, 2002, et la recette de la pâte à tarte de Ripe for Dessert, 2003 par le chef pâtissier David Lebovitz. Vous pouvez voir la recette sur le site de Jen.
En fait vous m'avez déjà vu faire de la tartelette au citron sans meringue, donc cette recette pour moi était sûrtout une variante sur les méthodes que j'utilise normalement. Je ne voulais pas mettre du beurre et du sucre partout sur mon appareil photo alors je n'ai pas pris de photos pendant que je faisais la pâte; puis j'avais peur de verser de l'eau ou quelque chose d'autre dessus en préparant la garniture, alors l'appareil n'est apparu dans la cuisine que quand les éléments étaient prêts à être assemblés.

As you can tell, I made tartlets with molds, free-form tartlets, and mini-tartlets. David Lebovitz's dough tasted good but I found it harder to roll out to fit the molds and that it had more of a tendency to become gluten-ish and elastic than my fetish dough recipe, that of my boyfriend Pierre Hermé (don't tell A.).

FR: Comme vous pouvez le voir, j'ai fait des tartelettes avec des moules, des tartelettes sans forme particulière et des mini-tartelettes. La pâte de David Lebovitz avait bon goût mais je l'ai trouvé moins facile à étaler dans les moules et ayant plutôt tendance à devenir rapidement élastique et épaisse que ma pâte fétiche, celle de mon boyfriend Pierre Hermé (ne le dites pas à A.).

The lemon filling was pretty easy to prepare. It was the first time I was preparing a lemon cream that was primarily made up of water, lots of egg yolks, corn starch and very little butter. Generally, I make PH's lemon cream, which is essentially made up of butter and lemon. I know, I'm obsessed.

FR: La garniture a été assez facile à préparer. C'était la première fois que je préparais de la crème au citron essentiellement composée d'eau, avec beaucoup de jaunes d'oeufs, de la maizena et très peu de beurre. Généralement, je fais la crème au citron de PH, qui est sûrtout composée de beurre et de citron. Je sais, je suis obsédée.

Perhaps because I haven't made any French meringue recently, having made only Swiss meringue since the yule log, the meringue didn't appear very stiff to me; maybe I beat it too much, or maybe not enough, I'm not exactly sure. But I still had a good time decorating the tartlets.
The best part of the whole process was using my brand new mini-blowtorch which is, as I said to Meeta, my new favorite kitchen gadget.

FR: La meringue, peut-être parce que je n'ai pas fait de meringue française depuis un moment, n'ayant fait que des meringues suisses depuis la bûche, ne me semblait pas très ferme; peut-être l'ai-je trop battu, ou peut-être pas assez, je ne sais pas exactement. Mais je me suis quand même bien amusée à décorer les tartelettes.
Le clou de l'opération a été l'usage de ma nouvelle mini-torche de cuisine qui est, comme je l'ai dit à Meeta, mon nouveau gadget de cuisine préféré.

Overall, I found the dough to be pretty good but I still prefer PH's recipe with almond meal, an egg, icing sugar, a little more butter, a little less flour, etc...
The lemon cream was good too, particularly because it was pretty tart but, I know you already know what I'm going to say, I still prefer the coronary available to me with PH's lemon cream recipe, which tastes better in my opinion.
And I think that next time I'll make a Swiss meringue so that it's stiffer and that the egg whites are cooked.
In any case, it all disappeared very quickly, which is always a good sign...
I hope you'll visit the other Daring Bakers daring creations.

FR: En tout, j'ai trouvé que la pâte était pas mal mais je préfère la recette de PH avec de la poudre d'amandes, un oeuf, du sucre glace, un peu plus de beurre, un peu moins de farine, etc...
La crème au citron était bonne elle aussi, en particulier parce qu'elle était assez acide mais, je sais que vous savez déjà ce que je vais dire, je préfère la crise cardiaque disponible avec la crème au citron de PH, qui a plus de goût en ce qui me concerne.
Et je pense que je ferais une meringue suisse la prochaine fois pour qu'elle soit plus ferme et que les blancs d'oeufs soient cuits.
En tout cas, tout est parti très vite, ce qui est bon signe...
J'espère que vous rendrez visite aux autres Pâtissiers Téméraires pour voir leurs créations.

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Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Bonne Année! - Happy New Year!

Chers ami(e)s,

Ceci juste pour vous remercier d'être passés me voir de temps en temps cette année 2007 et des nombreux gentils mots que vous m'avez laissé ici. J'ai créé ce blog il y a 6 mois pas forcément convaincue que je serai encore en train de l'écrire maintenant, mais les rencontres que j'ai fait grâce à ce blog, et les contacts humains permis par un mode qui parait être complètement impersonnel, continuent à me convaincre de ne pas arrêter.
Je voulais simplement vous remercier pour vôtre temps, car je sais qu'il est précieux, et vous souhaiter une très bonne année 2008 pleine de bonnes choses pour vous et vos proches.




Dear Friends,

This is just a little note to thank you all for stopping by from time to time during 2007 and for all the nice comments that you've left me here. I started this blog 6 months ago not totally convinced that I would still be writing it now, but the people I've met through this blog, and the human contacts I've made through what would appear to be a completely impersonal mode of communication, continue to convince to keep going.
So I just wanted to thank you for your time, which I know is precious, and to wish you a very Happy New Year 2008 full of good things for you and your loved ones.

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Sunday, December 23, 2007

Yule Log Madness - Folie de Bûche de Noël

Lorsque nos hôtesses pour ce défi des Pâtissiers Téméraires, pas moins que les fondatrices des Pâtissiers Téméraires Lis de La Mia Cucina et Ivonne de Cream Puffs in Venice elles-mêmes, nous ont annoncé que nous allions devoir faire une Bûche de Noël pour le mois de Décembre, je me suis dit qu'arrivait finalement le défi qui allait m'achever. En plus, non seulement je ne pensais pas arriver à la faire dans la cuisine à laquelle je suis habituée, mais je savais que je n'aurais pas le temps de la faire dans cette cuisine avant d'aller m'installer dans une nouvelle maison à Londres (temporaire, soit) avec une cuisine que je ne connaissais pas et qui, au final, s'est avérée être un peu moins adéquate que je ne l'espérais. Mais je dois dire que les dieux de la cuisine ont l'air d'avoir été de mon côté parce que je m'en suis sortie, et cela je le dois sûrtout au fait d'avoir fait le défi avec la charmante et très douée Meeta de What's For Lunch Honey? Sérieusement, sans elle à mes côtés (par message instantané), je suis sûre que j'aurais complètement saccagé le tout...*

En Inglés, Please: When our fabulous hostesses for this Daring Bakers Challenge, no less than the founding members of the Daring Bakers themselves Lis of La Mia Cucina and Ivonne of Cream Puffs in Venice, announced that we would be making a Yule Log for the December challenge, I figured that this would be the recipe that would be the end of me. Not only did I think I wouldn't be able to do it in the kitchen I was used to, but I knew that I would not have time to do it in that kitchen before moving to a new house in London (temporary, but still) with a kitchen that I didn't know and that ended up being just slightly less than adequate. But I have to say that the gods of baking appeared to be with me because I managed it, and this I owe mostly to the fact that I did the challenge with the lovely and very talented Meeta of What's For Lunch Honey? Seriously, without her by my side (by instant messenger), I'm sure that I would have butchered the lot...*

A savoir, la recette devait être une bûche au café avec de la crème au beurre au café. Comme je n'aime pas suffisamment le café pour manger une bûche entièrement au café, que nous pouvions changer le parfum à l'intérieur au choix et celui de la crème au beurre à l'extérieur du moment que la couleur serait proche d'un marron quelconque, j'ai choisi de faire une crème au beurre au chocolat avec des poires pour l'intérieur avec de la crème au beurre au chocolat pour l'extérieur aussi. Comme toujours, j'ai pu compter sur la grande gentillesse et sagesse de Tartelette pour m'aider à changer la recette, et en fin de compte Meeta a décider de faire la même chose.

En Inglés, Please: The recipe was supposed to be for a coffee-flavored yule log with coffee buttercream. Since I don't really like coffee enough to eat a whole coffee-flavored yule log, and as we were allowed to change the filling flavor as we wished and the flavor of the outside buttercream as long as the exterior color approximated brown of some sort, I chose to make chocolate buttercream with pears for the filling and chocolate buttercream for the exterior. As always, I was able to rely on Tartelette's infinite kindness and wisdom to change the recipe, and in the end Meeta chose the same flavors for her yule log.

Nous avons commencé à 10h du matin pour moi, 11h pour Meeta en Allemagne, et préparé le tout en à peu près 3h, avant de mettre la bûche au frigo pour ensuite la retirer plus tard et la glacer avec la crème au beurre. J'ai fait les champignons en meringue entre temps. Meeta était évidemment bien plus organisée que moi (j'espère que je ne l'ai pas trop ralenti), et comme je ne connaissais pas mon four, j'ai eu un accident en faisant cuire la génoise. Elle a cuit en la moitié du temps prévu (5mn au lieu de 10-12mn) et heureusement pour moi je l'ai retiré du four juste à temps quand je me suis rendue compte que l'odeur de brûlé venait du four! Je crois que ce qui m'a sauvé c'est justement le fait que le four était tellement plus chaud que je ne pensais que la génoise n'a même pas eu le temps de se dessécher avant de commencer à brûler, ce qui fait qu'un tout petit coin était brûlé quand je l'ai sorti du four, mais ça veut aussi dire qu'elle s'est partiellement déchirée quand je l'ai sorti du four parce que j'ai essayé de la retirer du moule rapidement pour qu'elle arrête de cuire, mais là encore j'ai eu de la chance, elle était tellement épaisse qu'elle ne s'est pas complètement déchirée et j'ai ensuite pu camoufler les problèmes avec la crème au beurre...

En Inglés, Please: We started at 10am for me, 11am for Meeta in Germany, and the majority of it took us about 3 hours to prepare, before putting the log into the refrigerator to firm up without icing it yet that is. I made the meringue mushrooms in the meantime. Meeta was clearly much better organized than I (I hope I didn't slow her down too much), and since I didn't know my oven at all, I had an accident while cooking the genoise biscuit. It cooked in about half the time it should have (5mn instead of the 10-12mn) and luckily for me I pulled it out of the oven just in time when I realized that the burning smell in the kitchen was coming from the oven! I think what saved me was the oven was so much hotter than I thought it was that the biscuit didn't even have time to dry out before it started burning, resulting in only a tiny corner being burnt when I got it out of the oven, although it also means that it partially tore because I tried to pull it out and remove it from the pan as fast as possible so that it would stop cooking, though I was lucky there too in that it was so thick that it didn't tear all the way through and I was able to cover it up with the buttercream later...

Ne maîtrisant pas mon four, j'ai fait quatre fournées de champignons en meringue pour en obtenir une dizaine dont j'étais satisfaite, et finalement j'en ai utilisé quatre. D'autre part, en dépit du fait que j'ai ajouté ce qui était sensé être la quantité maximum de chocolat pour la crème au beurre, j'ai trouvé qu'elle était vraiment trop claire, donc j'ai saupoudré la bûche de cacao avant de mettre les décorations finales. Les petites décorations sont en sucre et viennent d'une pâtisserie "Française" nommée Pâtisserie Valérie ici à Londres.
Vous pouvez trouver la recette complète de Nick Malgieri sur les blogs de Lis et Ivonne, et toutes les autres bûches de Noël des autres Pâtissiers Téméraires (dont Marion! Youpie!) ici.

P.S.: J'en fais une autre demain pour le réveillon Lundi soir.

*Cette bûche n'aurait pas existé non plus sans les secours indispensables de mon Kitchen Aid. Je le remercie.

En Inglés, Please: Since I was not in control of my oven, I had to make four batches of meringue mushrooms before I had about ten of them that I was happy with, and in the end I only used four of those. Also, in spite of my adding what should have been the maximum quantity of chocolate to the buttercream, it still came out really light, so I sifted cocoa powder over the whole thing before I put the final decorations on it. The little decorations on it are made out of sugar and come from a pastry shop here in London named Patisserie Valerie.
You can find Nick Malgieri's complete recipe on Lis and Ivonne's blogs, and all the other glorious Daring Bakers' yule logs here.

P.S.: I'm making another one for Christmas eve dinner on Monday night.

*This Yule Log would not have been possible either without the invaluable assistance of my Kitchen Aid mixer. My sincere thanks.

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Monday, December 17, 2007

Mes Premiers Macarons - My First Macarons

En fait ce serait plutôt les résultats de mes deuxièmes et troisièmes tentatives de macarons... et en réalité c'était il y bien des mois, mais je n'ai pas trouvé le bon moment pour vous les présenter, et comme c'est le temps des fêtes en ce moment, je me suis dit que le moment était venu. Alors voici donc ci-dessus des macarons au chocolat (enfin les coques de macarons au chocolat) selon la recette de Guillemette pour ma deuxième tentative (la première ayant été un désastre total), qui ont été promptement dévoré avant que je les garnisse de ganache, et ci-dessous la troisième tentative, une combinaison de la méthode de Christophe Felder sur le blog de Fofil et de la méthode de la reine des macarons, la grande Mercotte. J'aime bien l'aspect différent des deux genres de macarons, ceux de Guillemette étant plus rustiques et sympathiques, les autres plus lisses et élégants.

"Le macaron gerbet est rond, lisse, composé de deux macarons accolés et garni de confiture, de crème ou de ganache. Sa création est revendiquée par le pâtissier Pierre Desfontaines, petit-fils de Louis Ernest Ladurée au début du XXe siècle."

Je voulais essayer de faire des macarons et en sachant que mes parents les préféreraient au chocolat, j'ai donc commencé par les macarons que (je ne l'ai découvert que plus tard) on dit être les plus difficiles à faire. Après une première tentative qui ne mérite pas de récit, j'ai réussi à faire des coques, mais cela m'avait tellement stressé que j'avais laissé la ganache à faire pour plus tard (je préfère faire de la ganache plutôt que la traditionelle crème au beurre) et entre temps les coques ont disparu...dans plusieurs estomacs passant par la cuisine. J'ai donc recommencé en essayant une recette différente pour voir si ça me réussirait mieux, mais comme j'avais près d'une centaine de coques, j'ai décidé d'en faire la moitié au chocolat tout simple, et l'autre moitié chocolat-violette, ayant goûté des chocolats à la violette délicieux chez Pierre Marcolini. Ils sont partis très vite, et maintenant il me faut juste la patience de m'y remettre. Je crois que la prochaine fois je vais tenter la méthode de Mingoumango en zappant les blancs d'oeufs au micro-ondes plutot que de les laisser au frigo plusieurs jours. Ca m'évitera de planifier de faire mes macarons une semaine à l'avance.



Say What? In English please...


Actually, it's more like the results of my second and third attempts at macarons... and truth be told, it was several months ago, but I couldn't find the right time to present them to you, and since it is the holidays, I thought now might be a good time. So above are chocolate macarons (well really just the chocolate shells) according to Guillemette's recipe on my second attempt (the first having been a total disaster) which were promptly devoured before I put any ganache on them, and below the third attempts, a combination between Christopher Felder's method as seen on Fofil's blog and that of the indisputable queen of macarons, the great Mercotte. I like the different aspects of the two kinds of macarons, Guillemette's being more rustic and friendly, the others smoother and more elegant.

"Translated: The gerbet macaron gerbet is round, smooth, made up of two macarons slathered with jam, cream or ganache and sandwiched together. It is claimed to have been created at the beginning of the 20th century by the pastry chef Pierre Desfontaines, grandson of Louis Ernest Ladurée."

I wanted to try to make macarons and knowing that my parents would prefer chocolate ones, I naturally started with chocolate macarons which (I only later found out) are said to be the hardest kind to make. After a first attempt which merits no explanation, I managed to make shells, but I was so stressed out by the whole process that I left making the ganache til later (I prefer filling them with ganache rather than the traditional buttercream), and they disappeared in the meantime... into several stomachs which happened to be passing through the kitchen. So I tried again using a different recipe to see if I might have a higher success ratio (say 1 for 1 instead of 1 out of 2), and when I ended up with nearly a hundred shells, I decided to put regular chocolate ganache on half of them, and chocolate and violet ganache on the other half, having just tasted some delicious violet-infused chocolates from Pierre Marcolini. They were disposed of very quickly, and now I just need the patience to make them again. I think next time I'm going to try Mingoumango's method of putting the egg whites through a seconds-only sojourn in the microwave rather than having to leave them in the refrigerator for several days beforehand. It will spare me having to plan on making macarons a week in advance.

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Saturday, December 8, 2007

The French Laundry aka the reason you go spend Thanksgiving in San Francisco...

well ok, the real reason for your (or my in this case) trip to San Francisco may be to visit a dear friend and take her to The French Laundry for lunch as a long overdue birthday gift... But what is the French Laundry some of you may ask, the answer being that it's Thomas Keller's three Michelin star restaurant in Yountville, CA (that would be in the Napa Valley). And the earliest day you can make a reservation is exactly 60 days before you want to go, and believe me, in order to get a reservation, you'd better call on the dot 60 days before you want to go, preferably starting your dialing before 10AM and just redialing until you get through, because if you start at 10:03 or 10:12 or any other time during the day, you'd better believe that those tables will be gone. This is how we did it, on September 25th for November 25th.

It's funny because the building is a lot less imposing and big than it appears to be in the picture on their website. But I suppose that makes sense if you consider that there are only 16 tables in the restaurant seating 60 or so people for each service. Overall it was just about the kind of experience you would expect in such a highly rated restaurant, except for the fact that it was overly austere. Everyone seemed to be whispering, I think we may have been the loudest table and we're not exactly rowdy gals, and it was much more formal overall than I expected it to be, given that it is California and the Napa Valley. Judging from others' experiences at FL, it may also have been due to the nature of the people at the tables around us. The clothespin holds the napkins folded together and the restaurant is named so because the building used to house a French Laundry.

The menu was a nine-course tasting menu of course, although you could actually choose between two different tasting menus, one traditional and the other vegetarian, and if there was something you really didn't care for in one menu, you could ask for a substitution from the other menu. Since I wasn't crazy about eating panna cotta as a mandatory first course (and since Chlöe and I had already agreed that when there were two options we wouldn't get the same thing so we could taste each other's and therefore taste the whole menu), I asked for a substitution from the vegetarian menu which came in the form of Valley Oak Acorn "Flan" with Compressed Fuyu Persimmons and Black Truffles. It was quite unusual and apparently takes about three days to make because you have to roast the acorns and blanch them and then do other things to them and so on and so forth...

Thomas Keller wasn't there that day because he'd gone to the "Relais et Châteaux" annual big dinner in Washington, D.C., so his sous-chef was presiding. I had a long chat with my father later about how tasting menus are actually a cheaper alternative to à la carte menus for restaurants like this because the kitchen essentially becomes an assembly line, albeit, a delicious one. Everything was very good, although I'm not sure I agree with giving guests brioche as their first piece of bread because it is filling. We started with amuse-bouche of cheese gougères and the salmon and crème fraîche cornets for which Thomas Keller is famous and they were both lovely, especially the cornets which I would love to make at home (guess I might have to snag that recipe from the FL cookbook). The dishes were balanced and dosed such that we did not feel full until it came time for the desserts, but I do think that after the desserts the mignardises became too much as we were both feeling a little overwhelmed with how full we suddenly felt. In addition to the desserts we were offered a mini crème brulée and lemon crème, coffee, almonds covered in chocolate and perhaps coconut (I don't remember exactly), and then a platter of freshly made chocolates in various flavors (I could only take one banana-cream filled chocolate to taste as I couldn't possibly eat anything else). The blue ribbon in the top picture was tied around four butter cookies which they gift you as you leave. We shared a half bottle of white wine and then a half bottle of red wine. The only other thing to note is that some of their wines are incredibly marked up, I don't think I've seen such high mark-ups before.

If you go make sure to leave yourself plenty of time, it takes about 3 hours to go through the entire meal. Apparently, we could have taken a break in the middle of the meal to walk around the garden but the weather wasn't very nice so it didn't occur to us, and we could have asked to take a tour of the kitchen at the end of our meal, but I didn't know that was possible, which I would have loved to do, so maybe next time...
Here is the menu as I'm not sure you would be able to read it from the pictures (stars denote my preferences since I tasted everything):

The Amuses-bouche are not listed on the menu but again, were the
Cheese Gougères and the Salmon Crème Fraîche Cornets

Cauliflower "Panna Cotta"
with Beau Soleil Oyster Glaze
and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
--------------------
*French Laundry Garden Tokyo Turnips
Jacobsen's Farm Flowering Quince Purée, Toasted Marcona Almonds,
Dijon Mustard and Watercress
OR
Moulard Duck "Foie Gras au Torchon"
Satsuma Mandarins, Sunchokes, Shaved Burgundy Truffles
and Mâche (his was accompanied by 3 kinds of salt to sprinkle on the foie gras)
--------------------
Sautéed Atlantic Striped Bass
Swiss Chard Ribs "en Ravigote," Niçoise Olive Emulsion
and San Marzano Tomato Compote
OR
*Summer Flounder "Carpaccio" and Santa Barbara Sea Urchin
Broccolini, Fennel Bulb, Pickled Pearl Onions
and Juniper Berry-Tynant Water "Mousse" (which I actually think should have been called foam)
--------------------
Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster Tail
"Matignon" of Sweet Carrots, Salsify, Chestnuts and Celery Branch
with Tahitian Vanilla and Diane St. Claire Butter (which is actually the butter we were served as table butter and which was probably the best butter I've tasted in the US)
--------------------
Four Story Hill Farm "Poularde"
Marble Potatoes, Black Trumpet Mushrooms,
Savoyard Spinach and Madra Curry "Jus"
OR
*Corned Marcho Farm Veal Tongue
Musquée de Provence Pumpkin, Roasted Cipollini Onion,
Bacon "Lardons" and Blis Maple Syrup-Aged Sherry Vinegar Sauce
--------------------
Bouillon-Poached Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Ribeye
Crispy Golden Polenta, Baby Globe Artichokes,
Piquillo Peppers and Caramelized Garlic
--------------------
Andante Dairy "Acapella" (we were served a goat cheese)
Fuyu Persimmon Pudding Cake, Toasted Pecans,
Ceylon Cinnamon and Frisée
--------------------
Feijoa Sorbet
with Maui Pineapple Relish and Angel Cake
--------------------
"S'Mores"
Cashew Nut "Parfait," Caramel "Délice"
and "Sauce à la Guimauve Flambée"
OR
*"Charlotte aux Poires et aux Dattes"
Bartlett Pear Sorbet, "Japonais," Candied Hazelnuts
and Pear Coulis
--------------------
"Mignardises"

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